How to Fit a Front Door Lock

Decide on the best height for the lock and mark it with a pencil on the door. Mid chest level is usually good because it facilitates entering the key when you approach from the outside. Most locks will come with a paper template to show the exact drilling point for the barrel. Measure out the points you need to drill and mark them with a pencil.

Wearing your protective gloves and safety goggles, select the recommended drill size for the barrel of your new lock; in this case we are using a 32mm chisel bit. Drill carefully in the position marked earlier, ensuring the hole is horizontal, straight through the door. To avoid splintering the timber around the hole, only drill until just the tip of the drill bit protrudes, then drill from the other side of the door.

Insert the barrel and barrel seating ring into the hole from the front of the door.

Using a hacksaw, trim the barrel mounting bolts to the required length.

Place the mounting plate into position and screw in the barrel mounting bolts into the back of the barrel, securing it firmly in place.

Hold the lock body over the connecting bar and settle it into place. Mark the rebate position and depth with your pencil.

Chisel the rebate to allow the lock body to sit flush with the edge of the door.

Screw the lock into place.

This lock has a sprung brass bolt that snaps into a receiver to lock the door as the door is pulled shut. This receiver is called the strike plate. Close the door over as far as possible and line up the strike plate, outlining its position in pencil.

Mark the strike plate rebate to be removed.

Chisel the strike plate rebate.

Screw the strike plate into its position securely. There should be no more than 5mm between the lock body on the door and the strike plate on the doorframe.

Test the smooth operation of the lock. Congratulations you have now fitted your new door lock.